- Museum number
A woman's shirt / chemise; without sleeves, falling just below the knee. Made from natural cream tabby woven cotton cloth; five panels [circa 33 cms full weaving width], creating an A-line shape. Front and back formed from a single length of cloth. Diamond patterned embroidery worked either side of centre front opening that extends almost to waist. Worked in tones of red and yellow, and black woollen yarns. Herringbone stitch embroidery at edges. Stand-up collar has applied strip of embroidered cloth: larger-scale diamond patterning based on a repeating group of five diamonds. Worked in same yarns. Piece of printed brushed cotton cloth used to line right section of collar and neckline (green/red diamond pattern on cream tabby ground). A 6 cms deep embroidered border at hemline, extending to 13 cms at the sides (save for centre front panel, which has a small red/black repeating geometric motif). Hemline embroidery has a line of irregular shaped hexagons surrounded by star shapes; ground visible. Below is a border comprising solid diagonal lines. Overstitching of hemline. Same coloured yarns as before, with the addition of green. Two 24 cms 'columns' on centre back panel; another variant on diamond patterning. Large stain on left shoulder (as worn).
- Production date
- 1900-1925 (donor information)
Length: 105 centimetres
Width: 40 centimetres
- Curator's comments
Text from Eth Doc 1892, no. 39: Chemise, a 'ženska košulja'. Made by village women from home produced thick cotton cloth ‘domačno platno’ and dyed wool. A long loom width length of cloth is folded across halfway to form the front and back panels and a cut made across the fold and down the front to form the neck and chest openings. The latter is called ‘prednica’. Two long, narrow triangular panels are added to give width and to form the under armhole. The sleeves are missing. The collar, ‘jaka’, is embroidered with small diamonds and St. Andrew’s crosses and the ‘prednica’ has diamonds. The edges of both are edged with herringbone stitch. The insides of the back panel seams at the bottom have vertical panels. ‘Boï’ has a diamond pattern. The hem of the garment, ‘megupolnik’, is edged in a blanket stitch and a band of embroidery, except for the front panel of sloping lozenges with small circles (flowers?) and lacy patterns. The overall colour scheme is red, plum red, and cherry red, also black and yellow. The hem of the front panel has a narrow band of embroidery, ‘otsprednik’.
Religion: Macedonian Orthodox.
See Olive Lodge 1935 (Sept), 'Džamutra, or the Bridegroom: Some Marriage Customs in the Villages around Tetovo in Serbian Macedonia or Southern Serbia (Part One), Folklore, Vol. 46, No. 3, (Sep., 1935): 244 - 267.
- Not on display
- Acquisition date
- Acquisition notes
- Purchased by the donor in the early 1970s in an old commission shop in Bitola. The owner [Ilija] dealt in household goods but also costumes from families who were raising money to emigrate to Australia after a wedding to seek employment.
- Britain, Europe and Prehistory
- Registration number