shirt
- Museum number
- Eu1997,04.25
- Description
-
A man's shirt, falling just above the knee. Made from bleached tabby and twill woven cotton cloth, machine made and stitched; some hand embroidery. Slightly A-line in shape, with long, wide sleeve set in at right angles. Two vertical panels of red cross stitch embroidery worked either side of centre front opening; a line of motifs, each with a cross in the centre of an eight-pointed star. A twill woven panel, worked in white, red, blue and black cotton yarns, applied below neck opening, partially obscuring embroidery. Diagonal patterned embroidery worked in cream cotton yarns on collar, shoulders, cuffs and hemline. A double thickness of cloth extends the full width over each shoulder. Middle top part of back, sleeves and sleeve ends gathered into fine pleats. Shirt fastened at neck with polychrome commercial ribbon threaded through buttonhole stitched eyelets. Cuffs secured in same fashion with one plain and a polychrome ribbon.
- Production date
- 1930s (donor information)
- Dimensions
-
Length: 82 centimetres
-
Width: 140 centimetres (across arms)
- Curator's comments
- Text from Eth Doc 1892, no. 13a: Made by women village dress makers from purchased cotton thread ‘končec’ or ‘ježek’ and a panel of woven coloured thread 'ne prebor or naopačni' depending on its use in the making of the garment. Cotton has replaced flax, [the fibre] originally used. The sleeves are set into the front and back panels at right angles and gathered into a separate cuff piece of material which is turned back. This has white cotton embroidery and button hole stitched eyelets for the purchased woven tie ribbons. The top of the sleeves and the panels are gathered onto a stand-up collar which is turned back and embroidered with white cotton. It also has button hole stitched eyelets for purchased tie ribbons. A cotton 'reinforcing' panel extends the full width over each shoulder and is decorated at the external edge where the sleeve is gathered in with white cotton embroidery. The 'gathering in' technique used in the garment is of Roman origin. There is a small insert at the sides of the collar. The shirt is also decorated with two bands of red cross stitch on either side of the front opening over which is sewn a woven panel in sombre colours.
Religion: Roman Catholic.
For other parts of this attire see: 26: trousers; 27: waistcoat; 28: jacket; 29: neck-tie; 30: shoes.
Information supplementary to Eth Doc:
For a similar man's costume, see Elizabeth Wayland Barber and Barbara Belle Sloan, 'Resplendent Dress from Southeastern Europe. A History in Layers', Fowler Museum at UCLA, Los Angeles, 2013, pp. 124-5, Figs. 1.85a-c.
- Location
- Not on display
- Acquisition date
- 1997
- Acquisition notes
- Purchased by the donor in the village of Gračani in the Prigorje region.
- Department
- Britain, Europe and Prehistory
- Registration number
- Eu1997,04.25