- Museum number
A woman's blouse; a short bodice, with an extra panel stitched to each side of front. Top of bodice gathered in fine pleats onto small collar; full, long sleeves. Made from bleached tabby and twill woven cotton cloth; machine made and stitched. A panel of twill woven stripes (woven as bands) worked in red, blue, green and black cotton yarns either side of upper centre front opening. A different twill woven band (no black yarn) at top of extra front panels. Small band embroidered in red cotton yarn on collar. Sleeve set in at right angles; gathered in fine pleats at wrist with further twill cloth stitched on top to form cuff. Above cuff is a band of diamond-patterned smocking, embroidered on top with cross stitch embroidery using red and blue cotton yarns. Blouse and sleeves fastened with commercial cotton polychrome ribbon threaded through cotton loops.
- Production date
- 1950s-1960s (donor information)
Length: 46 centimetres (at front)
Width: 121 centimetres (across arms)
- Curator's comments
- Text from Eth Doc 1892, no. 12a: A blouse, an 'oplek' or an 'opleče'. Made by village women dress makers from purchased cotton thread 'končec' or 'ježek' into which is woven a band of patterned coloured thread 'na prebor' or 'naopačni prebor', depending on its use in making the garment. Cotton has replaced the flax that was originally used. The back panel is short and has additional panels on each side to give extra width. The front two panels are twice as long and made of two pieces with different woven inserts joined across horizontally. The top panels have a broad coloured panel on either side of the front opening in red, blue, green and black. The bottom panels where they join the upper panels have a horizontal strip sewn across which is predominantly red. The wide sleeves are set into the central panels at right angles and both they and the panels are gathered onto a narrow neck band. This construction is of Roman origin. The sleeve bottoms have very deep smocking and a wrist opening. The top half has red with blue cross stitch embroidery over the smocking, and the bottom half is covered with a wide strip of woven cloth in blue, red, black and green. Woven tie ribbons of purchased coloured cotton are threaded through cotton loops to fasten. Generally speaking, young girls wear much brighter red, older women use darker hues.
Religion: Roman Catholic.
For other parts of this attire see: 22: apron (festun); 23: pinafore (rubača); 24: jacket (kožulec).
Information supplementary to Eth Doc:
For a closely similar costume, see Elizabeth Wayland Barber and Barbara Belle Sloan, 'Resplendent Dress from Southeastern Europe. A History in Layers', Fowler Museum at UCLA, Los Angeles, 2013, pp. 12203, Figs. 184a-c, described as from Posavina, and noting that the garment shapes are achieved by sewing original uncut edges to each other and into tubes, and then gathering fabric together at cuffs and waist, so that no precious cloth is wasted. .
- Not on display
- Acquisition date
- Acquisition notes
- Purchased by the donor in the 1960s in the market in Zagreb.
- Britain, Europe and Prehistory
- Registration number