- Museum number
A woman's jacket, part of festive attire. Ground made from beige tabby woven fulled wool cloth, somewhat crudely made; hand stitched. Small stand-up collar with applied black wool cloth. Identical decoration either side of centre front opening: on the right side (as worn) three groups of five gold-coloured filigree metal 'buttons' separated by two cloth buttons (four in total) (outer); four vertical plaited cords (made from gold-coloured metal-wrapped thread); a vertical strip of dark brown cotton velvet cloth with couched meandering foliate patterning worked in gold-coloured metal-wrapped thread (inner). The opposite side has a line of dark red wool loops lying over a vertical strip of brown wool woven cloth. Collar lined with grey twill woven cotton cloth. Lower two-thirds of sleeves have applied dark brown cotton velvet cloth. Couched work in similar style to body of jacket at cuff; vent. Each sleeve fastened with two metal hooks and eyes. Staining (pink pigment), particularly under arms.
- Production date
Length: 53.50 centimetres
Width: 48 centimetres (at waist)
- Curator's comments
Eth Doc 1871: The costumes in this collection, and in Eu1993,07.1 to 61, were largely collected by Di Waller and Dan Lumley in the 1960s and early 1970s when Di Waller was based for some fo the time in Skopje on a Leverhulme Scholarship.
The costume was bought from a family from Galičnik living in Skopje. It's possible, however, that this jacket does not go with the other garments but comes from another Galičnik costume; it would be almost impossible to wear the two felted jackets simultaneously.
This costume would have first been worn by the bride on her wedding day and, once married, on feast days and special occasions. The remote village of Galičnik, high in the mountains near the Albanian border, is famed for its mass weddings which always took place on St John's Day in early summer when the men returned from work abroad.
For other parts of this festive wear see: 7: shirt; 8: coat; 10: jacket; 11: waistcoat; 12: scarf; 13: apron; 14: belt; 15: scarf.
For a detailed description of how and the order in which this item of clothing was worn as part of a whole costume, see Eu1997,04.131
See Olive Lodge 1935 (Sept), 'Džamutra, or the Bridegroom: Some Marriage Customs in the Villages around Tetovo in Serbian Macedonia or Southern Serbia (Part One), Folklore, Vol. 46, No. 3, (Sep., 1935): 244 - 267.
- Not on display
- Exhibition history
1994-5 4 Nov-26 Mar, London, Museum of Mankind, Balkan Costume from the Waller Collection, Case 3&4
- Acquisition date
- Acquisition notes
- The items in this collection [Eu1993,07] and in Eu1994,01 were collected largely by Di Waller and Dan Lumley in the 1960s and early 1970s when Di Waller was based for some of the time in Skopje on a Leverhulme Scholarship.
- Britain, Europe and Prehistory
- Registration number