- Museum number
A woman's coat, part of festive attire. Ground made from natural cream 2/2 twill woven fulled wool cloth; hand stitched. Made with five panels, small vents at each side; A-line shape. Elaborate, identical panels applied to either side of upper centre front opening: twenty gold-coloured filigree metal 'buttons' with a cloth button beneath (outer); four vertical plaited cords (made from silver-coloured metal-wrapped thread); a panel of mid-brown and a panel of pink cotton velvet cloth, with couched meandering foliate patterns and yellow and gold-coloured metal-wrapped thread brocade. Black, red and maroon wool braiding applied to edges (with small-scale couched motifs above) and armholes, which are set into the front of the garment. Vestigial sleeves set in at right angles to top of shoulder. Pocket on right side (as worn).
- Production date
Length: 99 centimetres
Width: 46 centimetres (at waist)
- Curator's comments
Eth Doc 1871: The costumes in this collection, and in Eu1993,07.1 to 61, were largely collected by Di Waller and Dan Lumley in the 1960s and early 1970s when Di Waller was based for some of the time in Skopje on a Leverhulme Scholarship.
The costume was bought from a family from Galičnik living in Skopje.
This costume would have first been worn by the bride on her wedding day and, once married, on feast days and special occasions. The remote village of Galičnik, high in the mountains near the Albanian border, is famed for its mass weddings which always took place on St John's Day in early summer when the men returned from work abroad.
The coat is sleeveless with 'symbolic' sleeves, reduced to decorative pendants, hanging down the side and back.
See Barber, E J W, 'The Curious Tale of the Ultra-long Sleeve (A Eurasian Epic)', in Welters, Linda (ed.) Folk Dress in Europe and Anatolia: 111 - 134.
For other parts of this festive wear see: 7: shirt; 9: jacket; 10: jacket; 11: waistcoat; 12: scarf; 13: apron; 14: belt; 15: scarf.
For a detailed description of how and the order in which this item of clothing was worn as part of a whole costume, see Eu1997,04.131
See Olive Lodge 1935 (Sept), 'Džamutra, or the Bridegroom: Some Marriage Customs in the Villages around Tetovo in Serbian Macedonia or Southern Serbia (Part One), Folklore, Vol. 46, No. 3, (Sep., 1935): 244 - 267.
- Not on display
- Exhibition history
1994-5 4 Nov-26 Mar, London, Museum of Mankind, Balkan Costume from the Waller Collection, Case 3&4
- Acquisition date
- Acquisition notes
- The items in this collection [Eu1993,07] and in Eu1994,01 were collected largely by Di Waller and Dan Lumley in the 1960s and early 1970s when Di Waller was based for some of the time in Skopje on a Leverhulme Scholarship.
- Britain, Europe and Prehistory
- Registration number