- Museum number
A woman's ankle-length shirt / chemise; long-sleeved, part of festive attire. Ground made of natural cream tabby woven cotton cloth. (Ground of sleeves made of linen.) The full weaving width (36.5 cms) has been used centre front and back, together with four additional panels, creates an A-line shape. Long, vertical centre front opening to hipline; undecorated. 32cms long crocheted inserts at hemline between each panel of shirt; worked in beige cotton yarn. Sleeves set in at right angles. Ground a more open weave than body of garment. Very fine counted thread embroidery worked on outer/upper part of sleeve and the entire lower section. Worked in predominantly red woollen yarn, with white, green and black woollen yarn, yellow silk thread and gold-coloured metal-wrapped thread. Some bands of cut work. Blocks of red wool fringing at sleeve ends.
- Production date
Length: 136 centimetres
Width: 82 centimetres
- Curator's comments
Eth Doc 1871:The costumes in this collection, and in Eu1993,07.1 to 61, were largley collected by Di Waller and Dan Lumley in the 1960s and early 1970s when Di Waller was based for some for the time in Skopje on a Leverhulme Scholarship.
Purchased from a family from Galičnik living in Skopje. The sleeves seem to have been removed from the original chemise and attached to a garment of more recent manufacture.
This costume would have first been worn by the bride on her wedding day and, once married, on feast days and special occasions. The remote village of Galičnik, high in the mountains near the Albanian border, is famed for its mass weddings which always took place on St John's Day in early summer when the men returned from work abroad.
See Mladenovic, Vesna 1999, 'Threads of Life: Red Fringes in Macedonian Dress', in Welters, Linda (ed.), Folk Dress in Europe and Anatolia: Beliefs about Protection and Fertility: 97 - 110.
For other parts of this festive wear see: 8: coat; 9: jacket; 10: jacket; 11: waistcoat; 12: scarf; 13: apron; 14: belt; 15:
For a detailed description of how and the order in which this item of clothing was worn as part of a whole costume, see Eu1997,04.131
See Olive Lodge 1935 (Sept), 'Džamutra, or the Bridegroom: Some Marriage Customs in the Villages around Tetovo in Serbian Macedonia or Southern Serbia (Part One), Folklore, Vol. 46, No. 3, (Sep., 1935): 244 - 267.
- Not on display
- Exhibition history
1994-5 4 Nov-26 Mar, London, Museum of Mankind, Balkan Costume from the Waller Collection, Case 3&4
- Acquisition date
- Acquisition notes
- The items in this collection [Eu1993,07] and in Eu1994,01 were collected largely by Di Waller and Dan Lumley in the 1960s and early 1970s when Di Waller was based for some of the time in Skopje on a Leverhulme Scholarship.
- Britain, Europe and Prehistory
- Registration number