- Museum number
A woman's jacket, part of festive attire. Ground made from natural cream tabby woven fulled wool cloth, somewhat crudely made; hand stitched. Small stand-up collar with applied dark red wool cloth. Very similar decoration either side of centre front opening: on the right side (as worn) twenty gold-coloured filigree metal 'buttons' with a cloth button below (outer), four vertical plaited cords (made from gold- and silver- metal-wrapped thread); a vertical strip of dark red cotton velvet cloth with couched foliate patterning worked in gold-coloured metal-wrapped thread; a vertical strip of dark green cotton cordoroy cloth, which extends to the centre edge (outer). The opposite side has a line of pink silk loops. Collar lined with yellow and black striped tabby cotton cloth. Sleeves decorated in similar manner; have vents and two metal hooks and eyes each.
- Production date
Length: 58 centimetres
Width: 56 centimetres
- Curator's comments
Eth Doc 1871: The costumes in this collection, and in Eu1993,07.1 to 61, were largely collected by Di Waller and Dan Lumley in the 1960s and early 1970s when Di Waller was based for some fo the time in Skopje on a Leverhulme Scholarship.
The costume was bought from a family from Galičnik living in Skopje.
This costume would have first been worn by the bride on her wedding day and, once married, on feast days and special occasions. The remote village of Galičnik, high in the mountains near the Albanian border, is famed for its mass weddings which always took place on St John's Day in early summer when the men returned from work abroad.
For other parts of this festive wear see: 7: shirt; 8: coat; 9: jacket; 11: waistcoat; 12: scarf; 13: apron; 14: belt; 15: scarf.
For a detailed description of how and the order in which this item of clothing was worn as part of a whole costume, see Eu1997,04.131
See Olive Lodge 1935 (Sept), 'Džamutra, or the Bridegroom: Some Marriage Customs in the Villages around Tetovo in Serbian Macedonia or Southern Serbia (Part One), Folklore, Vol. 46, No. 3, (Sep., 1935): 244 - 267.
- Not on display
- Exhibition history
1994-5 4 Nov-26 Mar, London, Museum of Mankind, Balkan Costume from the Waller Collection, Case 3&4
- Acquisition date
- Acquisition notes
- The items in this collection [Eu1993,07] and in Eu1994,01 were collected largely by Di Waller and Dan Lumley in the 1960s and early 1970s when Di Waller was based for some of the time in Skopje on a Leverhulme Scholarship.
- Britain, Europe and Prehistory
- Registration number