- Museum number
A woman's shirt / chemise; ankle-length, long-sleeves. It is made of a fine, cream-coloured tabby woven cotton cloth containing a thin silk stripe. The full weaving width [35 cm approx.] has been used centre front and back, together with four additional panels, creating an A-line shape. The scooped neckline is undecorated. The flared sleeves are embroidered at the hem with a line of geometric motifs worked in red, yellow, blue and green silk threads. A simple red and cream crochet edge has been worked at the hem of each sleeve. A simple repeating geometric motif has been emboidered in cross-stitch at the hem of the shirt, worked mainly in red silk thread, alternating with some blue and green silk in addition. Both sleeves have been patched with the same fabric as the ground and there are some small holes in the left sleeve, at the neck, and centre front.
- Production date
Length: 112 centimetres
Width: 123 centimetres (across arms)
Width: 86 centimetres (at hem)
- Curator's comments
- Text from Eth Doc 1836 (entry 59): The shirt worn with this costume is made of a cotton material with silk selvages along its width. The cut resembles that of the tunic. The shirt is decorated with embroidery on the sleeves and the skirt. The ornaments and colours of the embroidery remind one of the embroidery on ancient shirts. Besides this kind of shirt, with comparatively new ornaments, this costume can also be worn with a shirt decorated with a band of lace along the edges of the sleeves and the skirt. The lace has replaced the embroidery in other parts in the country, during the first dacades of the C20th.
A woman's costume from Kyustendil district, west Bulgaria. Beginning of the C20th.
For other parts of this dress, see:
61: outer garment ('saya')
Although recorded in 1971 as part of a costume from west Bulgaria, the chemise is closely similar, both in the disposition of the embroidery and in the embroidered motifs, to those from Skopska Blatia, near Skopje in the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia. See also Eu1996,02.6 and B. Sumberg (ed), 'Young Brides, Old Treasures. Macedonian Embroidered Dress', Museum of International Folk Art, Santa Fe (nd, 2011), pp. 80-81, a wedding dress from Skopska Blatia, c. 1910, and p. 88, a chemise from Skopska Blatia, c. 1920.
- Not on display
- Acquisition date
- Acquisition notes
- Part of a collection of 347 items given by the Bulgarian Committee for Cultural Relations in 1971, together with a full list describing each item, its manufacture and usage, with general account of Bulgarian costume in the different regions (Eth Doc 1836, pp. 21-25); specific information is given under 'Curator's Comment'.
- Britain, Europe and Prehistory
- Registration number