- Museum number
A woman's apron, a 'podia'. Squarish in shape (wider at the bottom than the top) with ground made from woven and braided material. Main ground dark blue (indigo dyed?) tabby (?) wool cloth, fulled, and embellished with embroidery, and applied black wool braiding (commercially made). Two vertical strips of braiding, each of two parts joined by ply-split darning (?); some sections worked in gold- or silver- coloured metal thread wrapped around a silk core. Embroidered scrolling, worked in fine brown dyed (uglans reglia?) wool yarn, decorates the inner edge of the black braiding. Two strips of black wool braiding, commercially make (joined together by ply-split darning?) sewn around each edge. Eight areas of joining stitch worked in gold- and silver-coloured thread wrapped around a cream silk core. Vestige of dark red/white goat's wool (?) tabby tie stitched to each corner.
- Production date
- 1925-1950 (?)
Length: 39.50 centimetres
Width: 34 centimetres
- Curator's comments
- For information about the technique of ply split darning see: Hail, Barbara A (1985), Female costume of the Sarakatsani, Bristol, Rhode Island, Brown University, Haffenreffer Museum of Anthropology.
'The apron was the most significant item of the women's clothing. Aprons sent messages of age and status: brighter for the young and unmarried, sombre for the mother. There were even special ones to say you were feeling lonely, or to mark some public dishonour (black and no sequins) or to wear when moving from one pasture to another. A girl had to make twenty five to thirty for her dowry, to cover every eventuality ...' [From: Sheila Paine (2003), The Linen Goddess: 152. For a short description of the Sarakatsan see Paine 2003: 151 - 153.
For a more detailed description of the life of the Sarakatsan see Fermor, Patrick Leigh 1958, Mani : travels in the southern Peloponnese, chapter 2.
Compare with Eu1971,03.12; Eu1993,07.19; and 2008,8009.1.
- Not on display
- Acquisition date
- Acquisition notes
- Acquired by Sheila Paine in 2000: 'bought Thessaloniki from a small dealer by the Arch of Galerius, who was the only person who had Sarakatsani material, and even then very little.' [source: Dreweatts sale catalogue: 7]
Purchased by the Museum at Dreweatts Auction House on 22nd April 2008.
- Britain, Europe and Prehistory
- Registration number
- Additional IDs
Miscellaneous number: 2 (Lot number: 355746-71)