- Museum number
Necklace and matching earrings, diamonds and platinum, set with cabochon emeralds inlaid with ruby and diamond flowers in gold settings. The inlaid emeralds Mughla Indian work of the 18th-19th century, mounted by Cartier in the 1930s. The front part of the necklace forms a tasselled rope which loops into a double strand of diamonds round the back, which has a large circular encrusted emerald forming the clasp, with a safety catch. The earrings each with single drop-shaped mismatched inlaid emerald mounted with diamonds, the fittings gold of friction disc type. Maker's marks on necklace clasp and earrings. Contained in original fitted red leather Cartier case.
- Production date
18thC-19thC (inlaid emeralds)
Diameter: 143 millimetres (necklace in box)
Length: 66 millimetres (central element of necklace)
Length: 60 millimetres (earrings)
- Curator's comments
- The cabochon emeralds inlaid with ruby and diamond flowers are Indian work of the 18th-19th century, set in the Western style with baton diamonds. They were probably intended for an Indian necklace in origin and have been re-used by Cartier to create a hybrid piece in the style of the 1930s.
Cartier themselves travelled widely in India, to seek commissions from Indian clients who wanted their jewels reset in platinum in the Western taste and to bring back quantities of Indian stones and pearls which were then mounted for Western clients. Fashionable and artistic society in London and Paris adopted the exotic Indian style. At the international exhibition held in Paris in 1925, Cartier's showpieces were set with magnificent carved Mughal emeralds.
For further discussion of Cartier's Indian style, see J. Rudoe, 'Cartier 1900-1939', exhibition catalogue, British Museum 1997 (revised ed. New York 1999). See also S. Stronge, 'Cartier and the East', in 'Cartier. Papers of the Symposium held by the British Museum and the Society of Jewellery Historians in 1997', published as 'Jewellery Studies' vol 9, 2001, pp. 65-77.
- On display (G47/dc14)
- Exhibition history
2021-2022 21 Oct - 20 Feb, Paris, Musee des Arts Decoratifs
- Various small missing stones and fragments of inlay in the necklace emeralds.
- Acquisition date
- Britain, Europe and Prehistory
- Registration number