- Museum number
GUN METAL CASED LEVER WATCH WITH CENTRE-SECONDS AND DATE INDICATOR FOR THE JAPANESE/CHINESE MARKET.
Fleurier-type movement; the cocks and bridges gilded and chased with foliate scrolls.
Club-tooth lever escapement; keyless winding and rocking-bar hand-set.
White enamel dial; subsidiary day-of-month at VI o'clock.
Blued steel hands.
Gun metal case; back decorated with applied gold Oriental landscape.
- Production date
Diameter: 52 millimetres (case)
Diameter: 42.10 millimetres (dial)
Thickness: 28 millimetres
- Curator's comments
- Comment from Richard Good, Catalogue of Watches in the British Museum. Vol. V (Unpublished manuscript)
Switzerland, c. 1890
A centre seconds and calendar watch for the Chinese or Japanese market with a club tooth lever escapement.
Case: Gun metal open face case the back decorated with Shakudo work. The inner dome numbered 11683.
Dial and Hands: Flat dial with sunk subsidiary date dial, the odd dates numbered. Around the minute circle a ring divided in 1/5th seconds and numbered 25, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150, 175, 200, 225, 250, 275, 300. A crack around the dial centre. Hands all of blue-steel, the hour and minute of spade design.
Ebauche and other Marks: 11683. The ebauche almost certainly by the firm of Jequier of Fleurier. A bull in a surround with E.5 on the front plate.
Frame: Bar movement, engraved, polished and the ground stippled. The second wheel offset to bring the fourth wheel to the centre. Under the cocks is stamped 83.
Barrel and Mainspring: Continental stop work, the finger missing.
Recessed cover to the going resting barrel; I. diameter 16.5 mm., height 2.00 mm.
Mainspring: height 2.00 mm., thickness 0.21 mm.
Arbor: diameter 5.4 mm., snailed.
Train: Gilded brass wheels, with five crossings except for the steel escape which has four.
Jewelled: From the third onwards, the jewels rubbed in.
Ruby endstones to the balance jewels.
Escapement: Club tooth lever, straight line layout, long lever with counterpoised end, single roller, impulse pin, elliptical in section. An equidistant locking escapement.
The pallet stones covered and convex on both the impulse and locking faces. The escape wheel steel the teeth chamfered one side.
Number of teeth embraced 3 ½.
Balance and Spring: A bimetallic balance but not split. Balance diameter 16.0 mm., thickness 0.8 mm. Blued-steel flat spiral spring of 12 turns.
Means of Regulation: Index on the balance cock registering against a scale with engraved "R A".
Train Counts and Beat Rate:
Great wheel (barrel) 80
Second wheel 64 pinion 10
Third wheel 60 pinion 8
Fourth wheel 63 pinion 8
Escape wheel 15 pinion 7
Beat Rate: 16,200
Motion work: cannon pinion 24, minute wheel 36
minute pinion 8, hour wheel 64 with super imposed the calendar driving wheel of 24.
Winding System: Side set rocking bar keyless work.
Calendar Work: Date wheel (with triangular teeth) 31, indexing wheel 48.
Dimensions: Case diameter 52 mm., height 18.1 mm., (over glass).
Movement: diameter 43.2 mm., height 8.5 mm.
Provenance: Formerly in the Ilbert collection. Ilbert purchased this from President 8/3/1938
Note: See La Montre Chinoise by Alfred Chapuis p. 172.
- Not on display
- Latest: 3 (2017)
- Acquisition date
- Britain, Europe and Prehistory
- Registration number
- Additional IDs
Previous owner/ex-collection number: CAI.0969 (Ilbert Collection)
Previous owner/ex-collection number: P257 (Ilbert Ledger)