Asset number
321522001
Description
Of the three valances found by Stein in Cave 17, this is the most complete. The other two are now in New Delhi. The upper section of the valance consists of a wide border sewn with ten pieces, with eight suspension loops of plain weave or samite. The lower section comprises three layers: streamers of plain weave, gauze, damask on plain weave, twill damask, samite and embroidered silk of different shapes which are sandwiched between triangular tabs attached to the lower end of the border and several joined together pieces of various silks. Similar examples of different use can be seen in the murals at the Mogao Grottoes. The size of this valance suggests that it was probably used on many different occasions. First, it may have been an altar valance, as seen in many murals at Dunhuang, and as recorded in a list of property owned by the Longxing Temple (P.3432). Second, it may have hung in front of a Buddha statue. Or, it may have been used as the side flaps of a canopy, as illustrated on the painted side flaps of canopy LOAN:STEIN.620 in V&A collection. Weave structures: Foundation: A. White silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 44 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 24 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. B. Red damask on plain weave with floral pattern Warp: silk, untwisted, single, red, 24 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, red, 39 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2-2 patterning weave for pattern on 1/1 plain weave for foundation. Pattern repeat: 2.7cm in warp direction and 1.3cm in weft direction. C. Blue silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, blue, 47 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, blue, 27 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. D. Dark red silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, dark red, 32 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, dark red, 16 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. E. Light yellow silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, light yellow, 23 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, light yellow, 14 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. F. Yellow damask on plain weave with diamond pattern Warp: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 45 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 18 lats/cm. Weave structure: 4-2 patterning weave for pattern on 1/1 plain weave for foundation. Pattern repeat: 1.9cm in warp direction and 1.4cm in weft direction. G. Yellowish brown silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, yellowish brown, 43 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellowish brown, 21 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. H. Dark green silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, dark green, 42 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, dark green, 33 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. I. Deep green silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, deep green, 44 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, deep green, 29 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. Valance streamer: 1.a. Brown silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, brown, 47 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, brown, 31 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 1.c. Reddish orange silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, reddish orange, 46 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, reddish orange, 18 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 2.a. White silk plain weave Same as A. 2.b. Stuffed small human figure made by gauze, clamp resist dyed Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white. Weave structure: 2-end complex gauze for pattern on 4-end complex gauze for foundation. 2.c. White silk plain weave Same as A. 3.a. Light green damask on plain weave with
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