pendant / brooch
- Previous 0/16576
Cast and chased gold brooch-pendant in the form of a winged dragon and set with a diamond in the dragon's mouth. Warranty mark and makers mark.
- 1888-1912 (circa)
- Made in: Paris
- (Europe,France,Ile-de-France (département),Paris)
- Width: 5 centimetres (max)
Inscription Typemaker's mark
Inscription CommentParis 'eagle's head' warranty mark
Text revised from catalogue of the Hull Grundy Gift (Gere et al 1984) no 1045:
The maker's mark is possibly that used by Paul Vever, Maison Vever, Paris. The symbol in the centre could be interpreted as an anchor. Ernst Vever, who established his business in paris at 19 rue de la Paix in 1871, is recorded by Vever as using a mark with his initials flanking an anchor; this mark is registered at the Garantie des Métaux Précieux as in use 1875-1912. He was succeeded in the business by his son Paul in 1881.
According to Vever, brooches in the form of winged dragons or 'broches-chimeres' as he describes them, were introduced by the Maison Plisson & Hartz, a partnership which lasted from 1898 to 1904. (The firm was previously run by Plisson alone, 186-98. After Plisson's death in 1904, the firm continued as Hartz & Compagnie, see 1121 and 816.) The brooches illustrated by Vever from this firm are more compact in design than the examples in this group, none of which appear to be by Plisson & Hartz (Vever 1908-12, 111, p.566). Although Vever does not mention Alphonse Fouquet, the archives of the Maison Fouquet reveal the importance of his designs for 'broches-chimeres', made in the 1870s and 1880s in association with his famous series of 'bijoux renaissances'. Many of these designs were included in the exhibition devoted to the work of the Maison Fouquet, held at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 1983.(see Les Fouquets; Bijoutiers & Joailers a Paris 1860-1960, Gary & Possémé, 1983).
Vever remarks that, despite their initial cool reception, these 'broches-chimeres' became immensely fashionable and were produced in Germany as well as France. Evidence of their popularity well into the twentieth century is provided by a page of closely related designs from the trade catalogue produced by the Parisian jewellers' syndicate 'Oria' in 19222 (Fig. 107). See also 810-814. (Charlotte Gere)
Britain, Europe and Prehistory
- HG.680 (masterlist number)
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Object reference number: MCT5973
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