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tunic / textile / ornament

  • Object type

  • Museum number

    EA72400

  • Description

    Textile fragment from the waist area (lower end of a short clavus) of a tunic (a) made of undyed linen, with looped pile on the inner side and (b) comprising the lower part of a clavus or shoulder stripe, consisting of an undyed linen band with rounded end and narrow extension with red woollen design depicting a running lion and stylised spotted plant within a double frame, the outer one having a wave-border.
    a) Warp: linen s-spin, c.31 ends per cm.
    Weft: main weft, linen s-spin, c.18 picks per cm; pile weft, s-spin, linen singles.
    Edges: all ragges
    Sewing: b) sewn to a), hemmed in s-spin z-ply linen thread.
    Add.info: a line of pile with every c.16th, 168th, or 20th pick main weft, a loop after every c.4 warp ends.
    Condition: medium - brittle and discoloured
    b) Warp: s-spin undyed linen, c.9 groups (pairs) per cm.
    Weft: linen and wool s-spin, c.80 picks per cm.
    Edges: turned under - probably cut
    Sewing: see a)
    Add. info: in background to tapestry, pairs of red picks interspersed among linen weft.
    Condition: fair - discoloured but little wear

    More 

  • Culture/period

  • Date

    • 6thC-7thC
  • Findspot

  • Materials

  • Technique

  • Dimensions

    • Length: 16 centimetres (max;a)
    • Width: 7 centimetres (max;a)
    • Length: 5 centimetres (max;b)
    • Width: 16 centimetres (max;b)
  • Curator's comments

    Information from Hero Granger-Taylor (1991)

    History of use: a) from the lower end of short clavus - ie. waist area of tunic; note that warp of cloth would be running vertically when worn.
    b) probably re-used here, and originally woven as part of a larger textile

  • Conservation

    See treatments 

    Treatment date

    11 July 2011

    Treatment proposal

    Surface clean. Humidify. Melinex sleeve.

    Condition

    Overall Description

    Dimensions of the plain weave fabric: 16.5 cm X 8.5 cm

    Dimensions of the tapestry weave fabric: 16 cm X 4.5 cm

    Fragment of two fabrics stitched together. They probably belonged to a tunic, with the plain weave linen fabric as the main tunic fabric and the tapestry weave as an ornament stitched on. The looped pile would have been inside the tunic, possibly for warmth.

    The first fabric layer is a plain weave linen (?) with sixteen rows of looped pile. The position of the fringing indicates the direction of the weft.

    Warp: 33 threads per cm Weft: 18 threads per cm. There are four wefts between in line of pile.

    The second layer is a tapestry fragment with red wool (?) and beige coloured linen (?) of two animals inside a shaped border.

    Warp: 11 threads per cm Weft: 33 threads per cm

    Overall Description

    Dimensions of the plain weave fabric: 16.5 cm X 8.5 cm

    Dimensions of the tapestry weave fabric: 16 cm X 4.5 cm

    Fragment of two fabrics stitched together. They probably belonged to a tunic, with the plain weave linen fabric as the main tunic fabric and the tapestry weave as an ornament stitched on. The looped pile would have been inside the tunic, possibly for warmth.

    The first fabric layer is a plain weave linen (?) with sixteen rows of looped pile. The position of the fringing indicates the direction of the weft.

    Warp: 33 threads per cm Weft: 18 threads per cm. There are four wefts between in line of pile.

    The second layer is a tapestry fragment with red wool (?) and beige coloured linen (?) of two animals inside a shaped border.

    Warp: 11 threads per cm Weft: 33 threads per cm

    Condition Report

    The two fabrics are stitched together in places around the edges. Where the thread is missing the stitch holes are still visible. A hem was made all around the tapestry fragment (around 1 cm) before being stitched to the linen layer.

    The plain weave linen fragment is brown because of the oxidation of the fibres with some dark staining, possibly due to body fluids. It is slightly dusty. There are three tears and one piece that is detached and only held to the tapestry weave by one stitch.

    The loops vary in size from few millimetres to two centimetres long. They are twisted and tangled together.

    The tapestry weave is in a good condition. It is slightly dusty and crumpled. There is a small tear on the left side and a little fragment near the lion’s leg is almost detached.

    Treatment details

    The fragment was lightly surface cleaned, to remove loose fibres and soiling. This was carried out using a museum vac on a low-setting with fine nylon net placed over the nozzle. Loose fibres and soiling were then placed inside a labelled plastic bag, to be kept with the object.

    A padded folder was made for the object in order to be able to turn it over without touching the textile itself, for study purposes. A Melinex (polyester) sleeve was not appropriate as this would have squashed the pile.

    The folder is made from acid-free board which is hinged with gummed linen tape.

    Inside the folder the board frames are adhered together with Vinamul 3252 (vinyl acetate,ethylene copolymer) with rectangular recess each side which correspond to the size and depth of the object. The recesses are lined with cotton domette adhered around the edges, then silk fabric stitched to the domette around the edges.

    The fragment lies on the silk inside the recess, and the folder can safely be closed and turned over so that the other side of the textile is visible. Labels were adhered to the outside of the folder with clear handling instructions.

    Treatment carried out by a Fourth year textile conservation student, INP, Paris, July 2011.

    An extra layer of thick cotton domette padding and a top layer of scoured cotton calico were added to the inside of the recess to prevent movement of the textile, as the recess was slightly shallow. The calico was fed into the edges of the recess between the card layers to hold it firmly in place, using a metal spatula. The nap of the calico on one side of the recess also helps prevent movement of the textile when the folder is turned over.

    About these records 

  • Department

    Ancient Egypt & Sudan

  • BM/Big number

    EA72400

  • Registration number

    1990,0612.19.a-b

  • Additional IDs

    • Unreg.19a
    • Unreg.19b
Textile fragment from the waist area (lower end of a short clavus) of a tunic (a) made of undyed linen, with looped pile on the inner side and (b) comprising the lower part of a clavus or shoulder stripe, consisting of an undyed linen band with rounded end and narrow extension with red woollen design depicting a running lion and stylised spotted plant within a double frame, the outer one having a wave-border. 
a) Warp: linen s-spin, c.31 ends per cm. Front, before conservation.
Weft: main weft, linen s-spin, c.18 picks per cm; pile weft, s-spin, linen singles.
Edges: all ragges
Sewing: b) sewn to a), hemmed in s-spin z-ply linen thread.
Add.info: a line of pile with every c.16th, 168th, or 20th pick main weft, a loop after every c.4 warp ends.
Condition: medium - brittle and discoloured
b) Warp: s-spin undyed linen, c.9 groups (pairs) per cm.
Weft: linen and wool s-spin, c.80 picks per cm. Patterned side, before conservation.
Edges: turned under - probably cut
Sewing: see a)
Add. info: in background to tapestry, pairs of red picks interspersed among linen weft.
Condition: fair - discoloured but little wear

Textile fragment from the waist area (lower end of a short clavus) of a tunic (a) made of undyed linen, with looped pile on the inner side and (b) comprising the lower part of a clavus or shoulder stripe, consisting of an undyed linen band with rounded end and narrow extension with red woollen design depicting a running lion and stylised spotted plant within a double frame, the outer one having a wave-border. a) Warp: linen s-spin, c.31 ends per cm. Front, before conservation. Weft: main weft, linen s-spin, c.18 picks per cm; pile weft, s-spin, linen singles. Edges: all ragges Sewing: b) sewn to a), hemmed in s-spin z-ply linen thread. Add.info: a line of pile with every c.16th, 168th, or 20th pick main weft, a loop after every c.4 warp ends. Condition: medium - brittle and discoloured b) Warp: s-spin undyed linen, c.9 groups (pairs) per cm. Weft: linen and wool s-spin, c.80 picks per cm. Patterned side, before conservation. Edges: turned under - probably cut Sewing: see a) Add. info: in background to tapestry, pairs of red picks interspersed among linen weft. Condition: fair - discoloured but little wear

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Object reference number: YCA61528

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