Cotton dress with elaborate embroidery
(asherah
nahuak)
Berber peoples, late 20th century
AD
From Siwa Oasis, Egypt
The 'white
dress'
Marriage celebrations create a specific need
for particular items of clothing and other textiles, whether newly
made, inherited or borrowed by the family of the bride or groom. In
North African society a man is expected to provide material support
for his wife and children. Gifts of clothing supplied before the
marriage either as part of the dowry or as presents demonstrate his
commitment to his new role as husband and
father.
Marriage ceremonies
in North Africa follow similar patterns. The main focus is the
'night of entering' (lailat
al-dukhla) when the marriage is consummated
and the transition from adolescence to adulthood is recognized. A
few days before the wedding day the contributions from both
families - clothing, jewellery and furniture - are displayed and
paraded through the village or neighbourhood accompanied by
musicians hired by the bride's
family.
The 'white
dress', asherah
nahuak, is worn by the bride on the third day
of the wedding celebrations, when she receives her parents and
family for the first time in her new home. The silk thread
decoration is said to represent the colours of ripening dates.
Throughout North Africa dates are offered at wedding receptions to
ensure fertility of the bride and groom. In Siwa, dates are a major
cash crop and thus signify economic stability and wealth. The
colours of the thread, red, yellow and orange may also be
associated with the sun, as Siwa has a well-documented link with
the ancient Egyptian sun god,
Amun-Re.
C.J. Spring and J. Hudson, North African textiles (London, The British Museum Press, 1995)